Munich, 2014-12-08

Almost everybody I know agrees on one thing. Cakes from your grandma are best. So it seems that there is societal longing to give yourself a regular reminder and get a piece of sugary heaven, especially on Sundays. Unfortunately only few places can live up to one’s expectations. If it is the special recipe you have been eating all your childhood or the smell of freshly caramelized topping of a pie ­ one piece of the puzzle seems always to be missing. This weekend I visited my sister in Munich and we returned to one of my favorites. A few years ago we stumbled upon this sweet little spot because bright pink letters in the window proposed: Fuck the Backmischung. (Fuck the cake mix).

Welcome to Das Neue Kubitscheck. Not only am I a big fan of occasional swearing in public, but also of cakes. Though I’m not much of a sweet tooth in general, cakes always get to me. They have something comforting, nourishing, something deeply connected to my childhood memories. The sweet equivalent of chicken soup. And this café not only serves delicious cakes but turns the stay in something right out of a crazy Willy Wonka story. The former Café Kubitscheck has been one of those traditional confectionaries. It is a local institution where all connoisseurs order their birthday or wedding cake. You see a lot of cream, marzipan and butter. But instead of just relying on their long­lived reputation, this second store offers something totally different. When you walk into the café, you’re faced with a mixture of big buttercream cakes and modern, very eccentric interior. It’s somehow as if the mad hatter of Alice in Wonderland took over your grandma’s kitchen.

A hidden jewel in the Westend area in Munich, it offers you a large variety of all kinds of cakes and pies as well as little breakfasts. But beware. Behind the traditional look there lie exemplary and extraordinary taste. For this we can thank the confectioner. A japanese mastermind who tries to put a modern spin on old German classic. So after the first bite of our Marsipan cake and apple pie, we were swept of our feet and walked down a trip on memory lane. I hate to admit it and ­ grandma you’re still the best ­but this cake is nothing short of those wonderful pieces you usually relish on your family reunion. While enjoying your overdose on sugar in perfection, you can watch their best wedding and birthday cakes that are showcase in their shop. Whether it is a Bavarian cake with antlers or bright neon letters that look more like billboards than actually eatable objects. It’s art for your fork. So whenever you are in Munich, give yourself a treat and be led into this crazy bakery.

And remember to fuck the Backmischung.






Das Neue Kubitscheck

Gollierstraße 14

80339 München­